Utility Safety and Outages
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Whilst we give many tips here, try not to change your loved one's environment unnecessarily, as this could make their home look unfamiliar - which is obviously unsettling. If you live a long distance away and can't visit frequently, then as far as possible make changes at the start of a long visit, so that you can see whether any of them turn out to be unhelpful and need to be revised or undone (though obviously while you're there you can help explain the changes and see whether that cures the problem).
If a handyperson is required to make any changes, see our section on home repair and handyman organisations.
Main gas valve, water stopcock and electricity consumer unit
See our note on making sure you and visiting carers know where the main gas valve, water stopcock and electricity consumer unit are, together with any triangular key required for access.
Gas safety
Gas cooker
Older gas hobs and cookers don't shut off the gas if it's turned on but not lit, or if the flame goes out, whereas new ones must (in the UK) have a Flame Safety Device (FSD) to detect the lack of flame and shut off automatically.
For all cookers there's obviously the risk of someone burning themselves by not realising it's hot and touching it, or for the flame to set something alight.
Assuming gas is also used for heating and so can't be turned off at the meter, there are two solutions: have a new hob / cooker with an FSD professionally installed, or have a lockable cooker valve installed (which also avoids the general fire risk).
New cooker with a Flame Safety Device
A new hob with a flame safety device would remove the risk of a gas explosion. Unfortunately, unless it's one of the very few that have a control panel lock built in, it won't remove the risk of setting fire to clothing, or of putting an electric kettle on the hob or of leaving a pan to boil dry and melt and set fire to the handle. Most new cookers have auto-ignition.
Lockable cooker valve
Alternatively, a lockable cooker valve can be professionally installed in the gas pipe to the cooker, so that a carer can turn the gas on and off and lock the valve off with a key. In GB these will be fitted free of charge - see the Cadent Gas website, for 'locking cooker valves'.
Gas boiler servicing
Make sure that the gas boiler is serviced annually by a qualified professional. This is to ensure that carbon monoxide (CO) isn't being produced, and that flue gas isn't leaking into the house.
Carbon monoxide (CO) alarms
Carbon monoxide produced by a faulty appliance can't be smelt or seen, and makes you sleepy so that you're unable to recognise there's a problem. (Of course sleepiness in old folks, and especially those with dementia, is most likely not a sign of carbon monoxide.)
Where CO alarms are needed
Every room that contains a gas appliance (boiler, cooker, gas fire etc) or open fire should have a carbon monoxide alarm fastened in an appropriate position according to its instructions.
Label what to do if the alarm sounds
Consider placing a label near the alarm to say what to do if there's a constant loud beeping - such as press their personal alarm button if they have one, or call for help from an open door or window, or perhaps call for help using the telephone (if they're good at using it). It's difficult to give general advice, because we don't want to risk sending people outside in freezing cold weather in the night for what may be a false alarm, such as an infrequent beep to indicate a low battery, or something on the television.
Testing, cleaning and batteries
Make sure that the alarm's tested at the intervals indicated in the instructions (usually a weekly test for the sounder, and some units also specify a monthly test for the sensor), cleaned as per the instructions (usually at least every three months), and that batteries and the whole alarm are replaced at the intervals indicated in the instructions (usually the alarm lasts 10 years). Don't forget to keep spare batteries for alarms with replaceable batteries.
Electricity safety
Electric cooker
There's obviously the risk of someone burning themselves by not realising it's hot and touching it, or for something such as the plastic handle of an empty pan to melt and catch fire.
Consider whether it's necessary to turn off the electrical supply to the cooker, either at the wall if it won't be turned back on by the person, or at the electricity consumer unit (or 'fuse board'). A carer may need to know how to switch it back on.
RCD installation and testing
A residual current device (RCD) cuts off the electricity extremely quickly to prevent electrocution if it detects that any of the electricity isn't flowing round the wires but is 'leaking' to earth, potentially through a person's body.
Individual plug RCDs
The first type of RCD is a small device that fits between an appliance's plug and the wall socket - these are a simple way of protecting that single appliance, for example an electrical heater that might have drink spilled into it (though see below for safer types of heater). Note that some of these RCDs require manually resetting every time the wall socket has been switched off and on (or there's been a power cut).
Whole house RCD
The second type of RCD covers everything on a set of the electrical circuits of the house (or all of them), and is located at the consumer unit (or 'fuse board'). If it detects a problem and shuts off ('trips'), then after the problem has been fixed the RCD can be reset. Modern houses should have this type of RCD, and whilst older houses that haven't been rewired won't have one, a qualified electrician may be able to install one without having to change everything else.
Potential problems with whole-house RCDs
It's possible for unknown faults, such as rain leaking into an outside light, to trip the RCD - so it's best if you can be around for a few days after installation of this type of RCD in case of problems.
Also be aware that very occasionally the RCD may be tripped by something such as a sharp voltage spike on the mains network supplying the house, which would be a major inconvenience and a potential safety issue if there's no-one else there to reset the RCD. Make sure carers know where the RCD is and what to do.
Similarly, it's possible for an electrical power cut to trip a house RCD, so that power doesn't come back on until the RCD has been reset as well as the power cut ending.
Testing
RCDs should be tested every three months by pressing the test button on them and checking it cuts off the power. Obviously for whole-house RCDS choose your time carefully - shut down computers, wait for washing machines and dishwashers to finish etc and wait for the boiler to stop running (turn the thermostat down if necessary) before testing. Afterwards you'll need to reset the boiler thermostat if adjusted, reset clocks etc, and check the heating and other key items are working. You'll probably find that movement sensitive (PIR) outside lights come on for a short while after power is restored.
Electric heaters
Check old heaters
Perhaps the first thing to check is that very old heaters aren't being used, or kept for use in case of emergency - insulation does deteriorate over time, especially when hot.
Try to store heaters for emergency use somewhere they won't get dust in, otherwise there'll be a burning smell until the dust burns off - but don't cover them in something that might not be removed before use, such as a plastic bag.
Consider a Residual Current Device
Also consider whether an RCD should be used, since most heaters have electrical elements that could potentially have drink spilt on them through the ventilation holes (which mustn't be covered). The oil-filled radiator types don't carry that risk, but note that they gurgle when heating up and cooling down. There are also oil-filled radiators that have a ventilated casing around them, to reduce the surface temperature that could be touched.
Siting
For all heaters, consider their siting - they need to be close enough to a socket to plug in without an extension lead; where there's no risk of being knocked over (ones attached to the wall are safest); and at least a metre (just over a yard) from curtains, furniture etc.
Never use to dry clothes
Never dry clothes using an electric heater, as this is a fire hazard (and potentially an electrocution risk if there's a drip).
Fluorescent bulbs
Fluorescent bulbs contain mercury, which is poisonous. Consider replacing any that might be broken, particularly in a table lamp that could be knocked over, with LED bulbs - these have other advantages too.
If the glass of a fluorescent bulb is broken
The advice is that if the glass of a fluorescent bulb is broken the room should be left empty and ventilated for at least 10 minutes before returning to it to clean it up. Don't use a vacuum cleaner, but do thoroughly collect up all broken glass and powder and place it in a container that can be sealed and thrown away - use two pieces of cardboard to scoop up pieces, sticky tape can be useful to get up tiny pieces, and damp paper towels are also useful for tiny pieces and to clean away any residue. Place all used cleaning materials in the container, seal it and put it outside in the bin. Ideally, leave the room to ventilate for several hours further if possible. If any tiny glass particles remain then they may be vacuumed up, the vacuum emptied into a bag and the bag placed outside in the bin.
Socket covers
To prevent electric shocks if drink is spilled, or to prevent something like a fridge being turned off by mistake, there's a wide variety of socket covers available (designed for baby-proofing). Some cover the entire socket and plug (but may not be deep enough for transformer plugs such as those for small electrical equipment), whilst others simply plug into unused outlets.
Utility outages
Power Cut Lights
Power cut lights are extremely useful in this rare emergency - they're rechargeable LED lights that are left plugged in and come on automatically in a power cut. Most types can also be taken off the charging point and used as a torch, and some have other functions such as night lights or motion sensor lights.
Look for how long the light lasts and how bright it is. They're variously described as power cut lights, power failure lights, emergency torches etc, and they're available in DIY stores and online - but use a reputable supplier and look for lights with good feedback.
Consider how many lights would be useful to light up important areas (including stairs and the way to the toilet), and where they should be put to make sure they don't get hidden behind something.
Priority Services Register, and Outage Alerts
In GB, utility companies each have a 'Priority Services Register', which you can sign up to in order to receive notification of outages and which provide a phone number to contact for additional information and help during an outage. For someone with dementia (or who'd otherwise experience extra difficulties) who lives at home it's a good idea to sign up to these in advance, making yourself the contact. There are safety issues - loss of electricity will mean loss of lighting, heating, cordless phones etc (although most personal alarm systems will have a battery backup), and loss of a telephone line will mean loss of the ability to call for help (including via a personal alarm system). Other countries may have similar priority register systems, but everything below relates to GB.
Many utility companies also have an outage alert system anyone can sign up to, separate from the priority services register. However, whilst very useful this doesn't provide the same level of support.
Electricity and gas
For electricity and gas you should contact your loved one's supplier(s) - see their bill or their supplier's website. Also ask them to include the network operator (for more information see the Ofgem website, for 'priority services register'). You'll need to register again if you change supplier. They may also be able to include your water supplier - but do check and if not then see below.
Note that it's possible for an electrical power cut to trip a Residual Current Device (RCD), so that power doesn't come back on until the RCD has been reset as well as the power cut ending.
Even if you haven't signed up in advance, anyone can see ongoing electricity power cut information via powercut105.com. Type in your loved one's postcode and follow the link to the local network operator's website (this is different from your energy supplier). It's worth doing this now and making a note of the network operator's website and their phone number. You can also phone 105 in GB (but don't use this number outside GB, as it can be something quite different), but note that this directs you to the network operator local to where you're calling from, which might not be the one you want if you live far away from your loved one.
Many of the electricity network operators also have mobile/cell smartphone apps that will alert you if there's a power cut in a chosen postcode, or you may be able to register for text alerts on their website.
Water
For water (and sewerage) contact your loved one's supplier - see their bill or the supplier's website.
Even if you haven't signed up in advance, the supplier's website should show information on current water supply interruptions.
Telephone lines
For telephone lines there's a 'priority fault repair' scheme, which you can sign up to in advance of any fault - for more information see the Ofcom website, for 'services for disabled users'. As that link shows, telephone companies are not good at publicising this scheme, or even acknowledging that Ofcom has placed this obligation on them. They may even ask for a doctor's certificate! Contact your loved one's supplier - see their bill or the supplier's website.